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免費入園

本堂拜觀 500日圓

開放時間  上午9點至下午4

造訪日期  2014/11/21 下午 

 

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京都的秋氣候宜人,對當地人來說賞紅葉也是重要行事之一,真如堂觀光客 極少,不知是否要先攀登又長又高的陡坡石級參道,秋陽明媚林蔭幽深不免 氣喘吁吁。我迷戀紅葉,愛上層樓,不再為賦新詞強說愁,照辛棄疾說法 是過了少年,秋光似水涼而不寒這般清爽,和澄澈的心一樣,此情此景 真想讚嘆天涼好個秋!

 

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真如堂原名真正極樂寺建於西元984年,京都寺院動不動長達千年歷史, 古都風華千年相遇,勢必懷著肅穆謙卑的心朝聖。也許日本寺院建築全木造, 遭遇祝融屢見不鮮,這兒同樣發生過火災,1693年重建。進入園區彷彿踏進 世外桃源,喧囂煩擾被古木參天楓樹吞噬,一片桔紅亮麗紅葉靜靜繞著主殿, 一股巨大的寧靜和古文化溫馨籠罩著我,于右任說:「自古以來名山等待的 是聖人,而不是神仙」,不是聖人也能感受這份古雅崇高。 

 

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(筆者)

 

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深秋季節紅葉燦然可愛,幾株枝椏垂肩,就近欣賞紅葉玲瓏娟秀剪影,比起 台灣楓葉,京都多了纖細依依之情豔紅桔黃青綠暈染秋空竊竊喁喁,樹下 濃厚碧翠青苔古樸雅致。三重塔見得到中國長安的影子,一旁紅葉嫣紅瀟灑, 紅葉被陽光映照得火焰光明,紅光耀如彩霞狂野燃燒,飽啜一瞬烈焰與柔情, 夢境與虛幻無涯的空靈,難以參透的迷夢,黑暗裡的焰彩波濤洶湧撞擊心靈, 美也會灼傷人心。 

 

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莊嚴壯闊的寺院,廊柱門扉黝黑發亮,窗櫺篩下點點金黃光影,紅葉熟艷 秋已深沉庭前白燈籠石燈籠手水舍祈福亭,與楓楓相連絢爛的楓紅 交織出清雅獨特日式風情。丹楓黃葉襯托亭台樓閣古剎屋簷氣氛典雅 錦繡光輝優美風光深深吸引人 

 

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楓林步道落葉紛紛,極度高峰飽滿轉入蕭索的落葉小徑最有秋天氛圍,令人 湧現回憶。淋漓盡致的紅葉如同一件晶瑩剔透鬼斧神工的愛情琉璃,一旦擁 有它,就隨時準備為它心碎,悲喜交集中不能遺忘也試著學會不再哀傷。 秋光中漫步靜靜冥想,別有一份恬淡氣息,豐盈中帶點枯澀正是秋的況味。 走累了,御茶處品茗歇腳,亭前黃菊紅葉映照清茶,品味醇美雅趣發思古幽情。

 

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古代日本貴族賞紅葉,不僅欣賞眼前美景,更重要是從中「悟」,領悟世事無常, 無常無法避免,明白當下最真,好好珍惜眼前良辰美景,在宮殿慶祝暢飲歌頌 季節交替帶來的美,「春有百花秋有月,夏有涼風冬有雪,若無閒事掛心頭, 便是人間好時節」。 

 

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有人質疑美到處都是,台灣追楓族又為何分秒必爭去作紅葉千里追逐,向絕美 朝聖?紅葉只是美的化身,萬物萬情我們追尋的已經不只是美的化身,而是 我們失去的,被奪走,被扼殺,被埋葬了對美的感性。紅葉從暗角裡激發對 美的亮點衝動,找回被扼殺掩埋的想像力。走向自然,在自然中不斷重新發現, 使感性思維再次昇揚與淨化。 

 

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交通京都市公車5路真如堂前站

地址京都市左京區淨土寺真如町82

官網 http://shin-nyo-do.jp/index.html

 

 

 

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